I am obsessed with this...Jeffrey Steingarten: I never get to the Greenmarket in the morning. I think that it's bigoted of farmers to get up so early. I don't think it's necessary; I know farmers in Europe who don't start until 9 a.m. with their market stores. There's no reason for the earliness, it's just machoness. So you get to the Greenmarket, and if you haven't ordered ahead of time, people are sold out? That's wrong! I happen not to be a morning person, but I deserve to eat as much as a morning person deserves to eat. When you prick us, do we not bleed? Seriously.